Free Pattern: Slow Days Socks – Stretchy, Snug, and Soothing to Knit

Materials

Yarn: Fingering weight sock yarn (~400 m / 100 g). 

Light speckled or gradient yarns work especially well with this pattern.

I used Ursa Major Mirror Line from Apmezga for the blue pair and Mille Colori from Lang Yarns for the striped version. Opal Tea Time would also be a great choice.

Needles: 2.25 mm (US 1) long circular needles for Magic Loop, or double-pointed needles (DPNs)

Notions: Scissors, tapestry needle, measuring tape, stitch markers

Sizes

This pattern is written for three sizes, based on stitch count:

• 60 stitches
• 64 stitches
• 68 stitches

Gauge

8 stitches & 9 rows per 2 cm(Equivalent to 9 stitches & 12 rows per inch)

Abbreviations

k – knit

p – purl

st(s) – stitch(es)

sl – slip

PM – place marker

SM – slip marker

k2tog – knit two together (right-leaning decrease)

ssk – slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)

p2tog – purl two together

m1R – make one right (increase leaning to the right)

m1L – make one left (increase leaning to the left)

RS – right side

WS – wrong side

** – repeat the instructions between asterisks as directed

Cuff & Leg

Cast on 60 (64, 68) stitches using the long-tail cast-on method.

Distribute the stitches evenly across your needles and join in the round, being careful not to twist. Place a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round.

Work in 2x2 ribbing (k2, p2) until the leg measures your desired length.

Suggested length: 10–13 cm (4–5 inches)

Heel

Row 1: Knit 2, place marker (PM), m1R, p2, k2 twice, p2, m1L, PM, k2, p2 to end of round.

Row 2: K2, slip marker (SM), k1, p2, k2 to 3 stitches before next marker, p2, k1, SM, k2, p2 to end.

Row 3: K2, SM, m1R, k1, p2, k2 to 3 stitches before next marker, p2, k1, m1L, SM, k2, p2 to end.

Row 4: K2, SM, k2, p2, k2 to marker, SM, k2, p2 to end.

Row 5: K2, SM, m1R, k2, p2, k2 to 3 stitches before marker, k2, m1L, SM, k2, p2 to end.

Row 6: K2, SM, p1, k2, p2, k2 to 3 stitches before marker, k2, p1, SM, k2, p2 to end.

Row 7: K2, SM, m1R, p1, k2, p2, k2 to 1 stitch before marker, p1, m1L, SM, k2, p2 to end.

Row 8: K2, SM, p2, k2 to 2 stitches before marker, p2, SM, k2, p2 to end.

Row 9: K2, SM, m1R, p2, k2 to 1 stitch before marker, p2, m1L, PM, k2, p2 to end.

Rows 10–16: Repeat Rows 2–8.

Size 60 sts:

Repeat Rows 9–16 once more, then repeat Rows 9–14.

Size 64 sts:

Repeat Rows 9–16 twice more.

Size 68 sts:

Repeat Rows 9–16 twice more, then repeat Rows 9–10.

At this point, you should have 40 (42, 44) stitches between the markers and a total of 90 (96, 102) stitches.

Heel Turn

Remove the beginning-of-round marker.

Knit 2, remove the next marker, then knit 20 (21, 22) stitches.

Place a new marker to mark the new beginning of the round.

You may now remove the markers used during the increase section—leave only the one marking the beginning of the round.

Short-Row Heel Turn

Row 1 (RS): K1, k2tog, k1, turn.

Row 2 (WS): P3, slip marker, p1, p2tog, p1, turn.

Row 3 (RS): Knit to 1 stitch before the gap (created by the k2tog in the previous row), k2tog, k1, turn.

Row 4 (WS): Purl to 1 stitch before the gap (p2tog from the previous row), p2tog, p1, turn.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 a total of 14 (15, 16) times, or until all heel stitches have been worked.

Finally, knit to the beginning-of-round marker and continue working in the round.

Foot

Row 1: Knit 15 (15, 15) stitches, then work in 2x2 ribbing as follows: [p2, k2] — repeat 7 (8, 9) times, then p2. Knit 15 stitches to the end of the round.

Repeat Row 1 until the sock measures 5 cm (2") less than the desired foot length, measured from the back of the heel.

Toe

Round 1: K12 (13, 14), k2tog, k2, ssk, k24 (26, 28), k2tog, k2, ssk, k12 (13, 14)

Round 2: Knit all stitches.

Repeat Rounds 1–2 until 32 stitches remain.

Then, continue working Round 1 only (decrease every round) until 16 stitches remain.

Graft the toe closed using the Kitchener Stitch.

Finishing

Weave in all ends, block lightly, and enjoy your beautifully crafted ribbed socks!